Dog Nutrition
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Dog nutrition has become one of the most confusing corners of pet ownership.
Walk into any pet shop and you'll find shelves of competing claims: grain-free, biologically appropriate, ancestral diet, cold-pressed, air-dried, human-grade. Online, raw feeding advocates and kibble defenders argue with genuine passion. Vets say one thing; influencers say another.
Behind all the noise is a relatively simple question: what should you actually put in your dog's bowl?
This guide cuts through it. No ideology. No affiliate links. Just the practical information you need to feed your dog well.
What Dogs Actually Need
Before picking a feeding method, it helps to understand what a dog's body requires.
Dogs are omnivores — not carnivores, despite what some raw feeding marketing suggests. They've co-evolved with humans for thousands of years and can digest grains, vegetables, and starches that wolves cannot. That doesn't make vegetables the priority, but it does mean a well-formulated kibble is not the nutritional crime some claim it to be.
The essentials every dog needs, regardless of feeding method:
Protein — the most important macronutrient. Builds and repairs tissue, supports immune function, provides amino acids. Should come primarily from animal sources (chicken, beef, fish, lamb). Dogs can use plant protein, but animal protein is more bioavailable.
Fat — essential for energy, skin, coat, and brain function. Often the most calorie-dense component. Omega-3 fatty acids (from fish oil or oily fish) are particularly valuable for coat quality and inflammation.
Carbohydrates — not essential but not harmful in reasonable amounts. Provide energy and fibre. The grain-free trend overstated the case against carbohydrates — the issue is more about quality and proportion than presence.
Vitamins and minerals — dozens of micronutrients that support everything from bone health to immune function. The tricky part of home cooking is getting these right. Commercial foods are formulated to cover them; home-prepared diets require careful planning.
Water — the most overlooked nutrient. Dogs on dry kibble need access to plenty of fresh water at all times. Dogs on wet food or raw have some of their water intake covered by food.
The Main Feeding Methods
Dry kibble
The most widely used feeding method, and for good reason: it's convenient, complete, shelf-stable, and — when you choose a quality product — genuinely nutritious.
What to look for on the label: - Named meat as the first ingredient (chicken, salmon, beef — not "meat meal" or "animal derivatives" as the primary source) - AAFCO or FEDIAF statement that the food meets nutritional standards for your dog's life stage - No artificial preservatives (BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin) - Protein percentage above 25% for adult dogs, above 28% for puppies
What to be sceptical of: - "Grain-free" as a selling point. The FDA investigated a potential link between grain-free diets and a heart condition (dilated cardiomyopathy) in dogs. The science is still developing, but there's no clear evidence that grain-free is better for most dogs. - Price as a proxy for quality. Expensive kibbles aren't automatically better. Read the ingredient list, not the marketing.
Portion control matters. Kibble is calorie-dense. Most owners overfeed by 10–20%, which accumulates into significant weight gain over months. Use a measuring cup, not a scoop-and-guess approach.
Wet food (canned or pouches)
Higher moisture content than kibble, which is genuinely beneficial — especially for dogs that don't drink enough water, older dogs, or those with kidney issues.
Generally more palatable and easier to eat, making it useful for fussy dogs or those recovering from illness.
Downsides: more expensive per calorie than kibble, needs refrigerating after opening, and can contribute to dental plaque build-up more than dry food.
Best use: as a complete diet for dogs who need higher moisture intake, or as a topper (10–20% of the meal) to make kibble more appealing.
Raw feeding (BARF — Biologically Appropriate Raw Food)
Raw feeding has a passionate following, and some dogs genuinely thrive on it. It's also more complex than its advocates sometimes suggest.
A balanced raw diet typically includes: - Raw muscle meat (60–70% of the diet) - Raw meaty bones (10–15%) - Organ meat, especially liver (10%) - Vegetables and extras (10–20%)
What raw feeding does well: high moisture content, high bioavailability of protein, no highly processed ingredients, often good for skin and coat quality.
What raw feeding requires: planning, freezer space, handling protocols for raw meat, and a good understanding of nutrition to avoid deficiencies. An unbalanced raw diet — just meat without the right organs, bones, and micronutrients — can cause serious nutritional deficiencies over time.
The safety question: raw meat carries bacterial risks (Salmonella, E. coli, Listeria). For most healthy adult dogs, this is manageable with proper handling (separate surfaces, washing hands, freezing to reduce bacteria). It's more of a concern in households with young children, pregnant women, elderly people, or immunocompromised individuals.
Cost: typically 2–3x the cost of quality kibble for equivalent nutrition.
Home-cooked food
Cooked at home from fresh ingredients. Appeals to people who want to know exactly what's in their dog's food.
The challenge: achieving nutritional balance. Most home-cooked recipes found online are nutritionally incomplete — missing key micronutrients that the dog won't show deficiencies for months or years. If you want to home-cook, work with a veterinary nutritionist to formulate a balanced recipe, or use a supplement specifically designed for home-cooked diets (such as Balance IT).
How Much to Feed
The right amount depends on: - Your dog's weight (current and ideal — obese dogs should be fed for their target weight, not their current weight) - Their life stage (puppies need more per kg; seniors often need less) - Their activity level (working dogs need significantly more than lap dogs) - The caloric density of the food you're feeding
The most reliable method: weigh your dog monthly, assess their body condition score (you should be able to feel ribs easily but not see them), and adjust food quantity accordingly. The feeding guidelines on packaging are starting points, not gospel — they're often calibrated for an average dog and may need adjustment.
Body Condition Score (BCS): a 1–9 scale where 1 is severely underweight and 9 is obese. A healthy dog sits at 4–5. At this score, ribs are palpable with light pressure, there's a visible waist when viewed from above, and an abdominal tuck visible from the side.
Foods That Are Toxic to Dogs
This is not a complete list, but these are the most important:
Toxic — never feed: - Grapes and raisins (can cause kidney failure even in small amounts) - Xylitol (artificial sweetener found in sugar-free gum, some peanut butters, and baked goods — causes severe hypoglycaemia) - Chocolate (theobromine is toxic, especially dark chocolate and baking chocolate) - Onions and garlic (all forms — raw, cooked, powder — damage red blood cells) - Macadamia nuts - Cooked bones (splinter and can perforate the digestive tract) - Alcohol (including bread dough that contains yeast) - Avocado (particularly the pit, skin, and leaves)
Safe in moderation: - Carrots, blueberries, watermelon (without seeds or rind), cooked sweet potato, plain cooked chicken or fish, plain cooked eggs
Making a Decision
The best feeding approach is the one that: 1. Meets your dog's nutritional needs 2. You can afford consistently 3. You can sustain practically (raw feeding is pointless if you stop after three months) 4. Your dog thrives on (coat quality, energy levels, digestion, and weight are the key indicators)
For most dog owners, a high-quality kibble is the most practical choice. For owners who want more control or whose dog has specific needs, wet food, raw feeding, or home cooking with professional guidance can work very well.
Go Deeper
If you want a full, detailed breakdown of every feeding method — with meal planning guidance, life-stage nutrition, managing allergies, and a complete guide to reading labels — we've written the definitive guide.
Complete Dog Nutrition: The Definitive Guide → — $19, instant PDF download, 21 chapters.
FurKnow produces practical, honest dog guides for every stage of ownership.